THE ANGLAR - DX409 SODE RING 4409 RINGED INLINE NSB BLACK NICKEL FISHING HOOK

The Anglar DX409 Sode Ring 4409 Ringed Inline NSB

Sode (袖, "sleeve") is the Japanese small-fish shape: long slim shank, narrow gape, a point that runs straight rather than curving in. It enters a small mouth with almost no resistance, which is why it converts the timid bites a wider hook never registers. The DX-409 breaks from the rest of Anglar's Sode range at the top of the shank. The 4400, the DX-406 4406 and the DX-400 418 all finish in a flatted spade end and all wear bronze plating; the 4409 finishes in a turned-up ringed eye and is coated in black nickel. Below that it is tournament-grade carbon with a chemically sharpened needle-cutting point in inline alignment, a barb and a long slim shank, in fourteen sizes at twenty per pack.

Key Features

• Sode pattern — long slim shank, narrow gape, straight point, low resistance on the take
• Turned-up ringed eye in place of a flatted spade end
• Inline alignment: the pull runs straight from the eye through the point
• Chemically sharpened needle-cutting point with a retaining barb
• Long shank makes baiting and unhooking easier; black-nickel (NSB) finish, dark and corrosion-resistant
• Fourteen sizes, #4 to #17, twenty per pack throughout

Ringed eye versus flatted. A flatted hook has no eye — the shank end is pressed flat and the line is whipped onto it. That gives the slimmest head, but it demands a snell, and a snell that creeps over the flat lets go. The ring removes that step: any knot holds, a trace can be re-tied in poor light, and the hook can be clipped to a dropper loop or small snap. The trade is a little bulk beside a small bait and a kink in the line of pull — which the turned-up eye answers, bringing the pull back into line with the point. It behaves like a snelled spade without the whipping.

How To Rig It

• Knot or snell — A snug knot on the ring is fine; if you prefer the snelled feel, whip the leader down the shank and pass it through the eye. The alignment stays true either way.
• Threaded bait — Enter at the tail of a worm or prawn and thread it up the long shank so the bait lies straight; straight baits spin and twist the trace less.
• Light float and paternoster — Stick float and one or two shot with the bait just off bottom, or a short dropper above a light sinker. Lift as the line tightens rather than striking.
• Sizing — Japanese gō numbering: the number rises as the hook grows. #4–#8 small pond fish, #9–#13 general bait work, #14–#17 larger baits.

Target Species By Region

• Southeast Asia — Tilapia, javanese carp (lampam), catfish (keli) and pond prawns (udang galah) in fresh water; whiting, ponyfish and small bream on light jetty rigs, where black nickel outlasts bronze in salt.
• North America — Bluegill, crappie, yellow perch and stocked trout on worm or dough bait; bullheads on cut bait; shiners for the livewell.
• Japan & East Asia — The pattern's home water: funa (crucian carp), oikawa (pale chub), haze (goby) and tanago on fine float and bottom rigs.
• Australia, Middle East & Europe — Garfish, yellowfin bream and whiting off Australian jetties; small rabbitfish on Gulf breakwaters; roach, rudd and perch on European canals.

Specifications

The four Anglar Sode hooks.

Three flatted bronze hooks and one ringed black-nickel one: take the 4409 when you would rather tie than whip, or when the rig is going into salt.

Recommended Pairing

• Light float, feeder or hand-line bait rod, 1000–2500 spinning reel
• 2–8 lb mono or fluorocarbon tied direct to the ring or to a fine dropper
• Choose the 4400 or 4406 for a flatted bronze version of the same shape, or the 418 for a forged bend