THE ANGLAR - AKITA HOOK FLATTED 448 FISHING HOOK

The Anglar Akita Hook Flatted 448 Fishing Hook

Akita is another of the Japanese small-fish bait patterns, and it is the natural counterpart to the Sode hooks in this range. Where a Sode runs its point dead straight, the Akita's point is kirbed in — angled slightly inward toward the shank. That inward angle changes what the hook does after it enters: instead of relying on a clean straight pull, it turns and takes hold as the fish moves off, which is why it holds better on fish that head-shake, roll or run at an angle. The 448 is built in tournament-grade carbon wire with a chemically sharpened needle point, a retaining barb and a flatted shank end for snelling. The blue finish is a low-glare plating that shows less flash underwater than bright silver, which matters around wary fish in clear ponds and shallow margins. Eleven sizes cover small pond fish through to larger bait presentations.

Key Features

• Kirbed-in point angled toward the shank — turns and holds rather than pulling straight
• Chemically sharpened needle point for penetration with little force
• Tournament-grade carbon wire: fine and responsive, but stiff enough to set
• Flatted (spade) shank end for snelled, low-bulk rigs
• Sharp retaining barb to hold fish and soft baits
• Blue finish for reduced underwater flash
• Eleven sizes, #4 to #14

Flatted vs ringed eye. Like the Sode hooks, this one is flatted — the shank end is pressed flat and there is no eye, so the knot must be whipped on. Nothing sits above the shank, which keeps the rig slim and the pull aligned with the point, and it suits fine line. A ringed eye is stronger and takes heavy leader, split rings or snaps, which is why the 484 Plain Shank and the S-75M in this range use one. Fine line and small bait: flatted. Heavy line or clip-on rigs: ringed.

How To Rig It

• Snell it — Lay the line along the inside face of the shank, whip 6–8 turns toward the bend, pass the tag back through and tighten. The line must leave on the inside so the pull works with the kirbed point, not against it. An ordinary knot will slide off the flat.
• Do not strike hard — A kirbed-in point sets itself as the fish turns. Lift smoothly into the weight of the fish; a hard sweep on a fine wire hook is how you straighten or tear it out.
• Bait presentation — Worm, prawn meat, maggot, paste and pellet all suit it. Bury the bend and leave the point just proud, since the inward angle needs a little exposure to work.
• Sizing — Japanese gō numbering: the number rises as the hook gets larger. #4–#8 for small pond and river fish, #9–#11 for general bait work, #12–#14 for larger baits and better fish.

Target Species By Region

• Southeast Asia — Tilapia, javanese carp (lampam), small catfish (keli) and mixed pond species; small bream, whiting and ponyfish on light jetty rigs.
• North America — Bluegill, crappie, yellow perch and stocked trout on worm, maggot or dough bait.
• Japan & East Asia — Funa (crucian carp), wakasagi, haze (goby) and tanago on fine float and bottom rigs; a standard pattern for small-fish river and pond work.
• Australia, Middle East & Europe — Garfish, yellowfin bream and whiting from Australian jetties; small rabbitfish on Gulf breakwaters; roach, rudd, perch and small bream on European canals and lakes.

Specifications

Finish: blue throughout. The pack count for size #7 is not listed by the manufacturer.

Recommended Pairing

• Light float, feeder or hand-line bait rod with a 1000–2500 spinning reel
• 2–8 lb monofilament or fluorocarbon, snelled direct or to a fine dropper
• Choose a Sode pattern instead when you want a longer shank for threaded baits and a straight-pull hookset